As a quick fix: Go to the install path, by default “C:Program FilesUltimaker Cura 4.4”. Right click Cura.exe and select ‘properties’. Click the ‘compatibility’ tab and select “Run This Program in Compatibility Mode For: Windows 8”. If this does not fix your issue, please contact your service provider. Minor improvements. Marlin print-quality ultimaker-cura creality-ender-3 pla prusa-i3 extruder 3d-models filament troubleshooting more tags. Active 1 Bountied Hot Week Month. Cura not Slicing. Ultimaker-cura slicing. Modified 26 mins ago Aayush Boliya 1. UBL Marlin settings to cover whole bed. Some things just make other things better. Plug-ins for Cura are good examples. Check out our top picks for the best Cura plug-ins.
● Install the Cura software
Click Cura .exe file, pop-up installation window, continue to click next step to complete the installation.
● Machine settings
For offline printing, do not need to connect to computer, easy to operate with SD card. After install Cura software,Select 'print all the once' from the 'Tools'.
Object operation
Click right mouse function
The name of 'filename. gcode' file must be in English or number, do not name it into Chinese characters or others. Save the file to the SD card, then insert it into the card slot and turn on the power. Select 'print from SD' in the main menu from LCD Control Screen, then select the 'filename. gcode' file you just saved and confirm it and begin to print.
Open Cura software,you can modify all of the printing parameters on the display screen.
Transfer files from phone to computer. Select 'Switch to full settings'.
Layer height: 0.1 - 0.4mm available. 0.1mm high precision, but long printing time, 0.4mm low precision, but printing time is too short, in general select 0.2mm.
Shell thickness: 0.4mm is very thin, in general select 1.2mm, that will increase the printing time.
Enable retraction: To prevent the wire from leaking when printing quickly, otherwise it will affect the appearance.
Bottom / Top thickness: In order to make the top layer print more perfect and flat bottom layer.
Fill density: If the intensity is not high, select 20%. If the intensity is high, increase it and the printing time also will increase.
Print speed: Generally set 30-100, he print speed is higher and the precision is lower.
Printing temperature: Depends on the filament, generally select 190 - 210 degrees.
Support type: Include a half-support and full support. In general the model with suspended structure needs to set support, but a surface will be rough after removing support.
Platform adhesion type: 'None' means do not set any support, 'Brim' increases the bottom area. 'Raft' base makes the model more adherent. To make the model better adhere to the base, add a base or edge. But best to increase a base and an edge relative to the small bottom area.
Diameter: 1.75mm
Flow: 100%
Nozzle size: 0.4mm.
Retraction Speed: The speed of retraction when printing.
Retraction distance: The length of material retraction, generally select 4.5 - 8mm.
Initial layer thickness: The first layer thickness of printing. Select default option.
Initial layer line width: 100% will be thicker and denser, Select default option.
Cut off object bottom: The length of cutting off the bottom of model.
Dual extrusion overlap: 0.15mm. Select default option.
Travel speed: The moving speed when nozzle does not extrude filament.
Bottom layer speed: The speed of printing the first layer. Setting a slower speed to make object better attached to base plate.
Infill speed, Top / bottom speed, Outer shell speed, Inner Shell speed: Select default option.
Minimal layer time: Select default option.
Enable cooling fan: To cool the temperature of nozzle.
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So i'm trying to print a mandalorian helmet (in 2 halves) on my CR10v2 (brand new) and i got to about 40% and it looks like my layers started shifting in a bit of a stair case effect. Does anyone know what might cause this? It's rafted to the bed so not moving at all, belt seems tight. I checked all the bolts and rollers seem good. I'm not sure what axis is shifting, but my assumption is the Y since its shifts backwards on the Y axis...I printed a collapsible katana that goes up pretty high with no issues previously, granted its not nearly as wide....I pulled it off the bed and took the picture of it sideways so you can see the shift better so that shift (on the left in the pic) is actually the top and the shift seems to shift further backwards on the Y as it goes higher.
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